In 2020, I moved to a small city I never knew existed.
It was my second year as an Auxiliary de Conversación or a language assistant, and I had requested to be placed in the charming city of Granada.
I remember waiting to hear from the ministry where I would be placed for the upcoming school year. I was sitting on the balcony with my friend when my acceptance letter was emailed to me. I impatiently scrolled down the screen to find the information and shouted, " Where the heck is Jaén?"
At that moment, I was relieved to have received placement and the opportunity to spend another year in Spain. But honestly, I didn't know what to expect.
Why Granada?
If you're not familiar with Granada, it is a lovely city. The town's jewel is the incredible Alhambra, a UNESCO world heritage site. It's a vibrant place with rich Moorish heritage, as shown by enchanting neighborhoods like Albaicin. You can also find Flamenco dancers performing along cobblestone streets and within decade-old caves.
If you're planning a trip to Granada, here's an article about fun things to do there!
It was as if the universe had a different plan for me. Instead of the vibrant Granada I had hoped for, I found myself in the mountainous region of Jaén.
Instead, I was placed to work in the mountainous region of Jaén and moved to its capital city.
First impression of Jaén
I had never heard of the region, let alone the city. When I asked my Spanish friends about it, they would raise their eyebrows, look at me sympathetically, and say, "Well, at least you're close to Granada."
Jaén was not on my radar, and I did not expect to stay here for four years and counting. Yet, I have discovered why the people who live here refer to it as a hidden paradise.
7 Great reasons to visit Jaén
Jaén is known as the capital of olive oil. With over 60 million olive trees, the region produces some of the highest-quality, award-winning olive oil.
Besides the liquid gold, there are many more reasons to visit and enjoy Jaén.
1. You can hike trails that run along a castle
If you're coming to stay in Jaén, there are several different hotels to choose from, such as Hotel Condestable Iranzo and Hotel Europa.
However, the most luxurious is the El Parador de Jaén, a castle converted into a hotel.
Yet what I love most are the hiking trails around the castle. The main trail leads you from the streets to a stunning panoramic view of Jaén. Several trails along the castle side can take you above the city and to neighboring towns. These trails are a quick escape from the bustling city—a place to be sheltered by nature and walk along ancient paths.
2. Cool off in Los Cañones
On the city's outskirts is Rio frio, or cold river, an absolute haven during the sultry summer months. The water is indeed cold, but after you get over the initial shock, the area, known as Los Cañones or the canyons, is breathtakingly beautiful. How the cliff walls mimic the river's curves makes you feel like you've entered another world.
3. Shop at the Olive oil shops
Do you know how there are wine shops that exclusively sell specific brands of wine? Well, we have those, too, and we have stores that exclusively sell olive oil. I never knew more than one or two varieties of olive oil. Yet, there is a wide variety of delicious toppings.
4. Enjoy the free tapas
Spain is known for its tapas or small appetizers. One fun fact about Jaén is that you get a free tapa with every drink you order, even the non-alcoholic ones. Yep, practically free food.
While Spain is a very meat-forward country, many places have accommodated my dietary restrictions.
5. Appreciate the gastronomy
The appetizing food starts with the tapas and continues with every meal. I'm not going to lie, but when I first moved to Jaén, I didn't eat out much. I quickly saw that there were limited options for me as someone who is lactose intolerant and doesn't eat red meat. But I've come to find a few staple dishes I love. Some of the signature plates that are popular amongst locals are:
Flamenquin(originally from Cordoba) is made with pieces of pork loin and serrano ham
Pipirrana- a green pepper salad with boiled egg and tuna ( vegetarian friendly)
Migas ruleras- fried breadcrumbs with garlic and sausages
Marinated olives
If you want to try something fancy., Jaén has four Michelin-starred restaurants If you're going to eat more low-key, you'll find that many restaurants serve similar dishes, but all offer unique flavorings or twists.
6. Take a peaceful walk along the Via Verdes
You might be wondering what a Via Verde is. Well, they are long pathways situated on both ends of the city. These trails take you up into the mountains, within olive groves, and provide quick relief from the city. With calming scenery of diverse plants, small art installations, and views overlooking the city, it's a great place to walk and ease your mind.
7. Get to know the people
Lastly, the people of Jaén are warm and welcoming. I often hear people saying to each other, " Me alegro a verte," which means I'm happy to see you. This does sound like the American phrase " Good to see you," but I often note a tone of sincerity when the people of Jaén say this expression.
Yes, I know. I'm a little biased because I live here, but I live in Jaén as a foreigner—a foreigner who stands out because I'm Black. I also stand out because my accent is different when I speak Spanish. Yet, 95% of the time, I've always felt treated like I was just another person.
When I go into shops or pass people on the street, they take time to talk with me. When I mix up my Spanish, which I often do, and ask for Pimenta negra ( Black pepper) instead of what I really wanted, Pimenton ( paprika), people aren't phased.
Jaén has a natural, inviting ambiance, which is the number one reason I've stayed here for so long.
Don't get me wrong—Jaén would be an absolute heaven on earth if there were a beach, but it is undoubtedly a hidden paradise.
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My name is Kiersten. As a travel writer and content strategist, I help travel brands grow their audiences and sales through storytelling and content strategy.
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